There are days when I feel unusually protective of the French Riviera.
After
living here for over a decade and being a long time visitor decades
before that, this corner of the world has become home. I love seeing
visitors discover places like Èze for the first time, but every summer I
also find myself quietly worrying as I watch people unknowingly put
themselves in situations that could easily become dangerous.
This
isn’t meant to discourage anyone from visiting one of the Riviera’s
most spectacular villages. Quite the opposite. I simply want people to
enjoy it safely.
My regular swimming spot is in Èze
Bord de Mer, which means I pass through the train and bus station almost
every day. Throughout the summer, thousands of visitors arrive by train
before making their way up the mountain to the medieval village of Èze.
If you’ve never been, here’s what to expect.
By
9:00 or 9:30 in the morning, crowds have already begun forming at the
bus stop waiting for the No. 83 bus that climbs the winding road to the
village. During peak season, those buses are almost always full even in
the winter. Some people will board earlier along the route from Nice,
but there’s a good chance you’ll be standing shoulder to shoulder with
dozens of other travellers.
For many people, there is a much easier solution.
From
the train station, an Uber is often surprisingly affordable—typically
somewhere between €10 and €25 depending on the season, time of day and
demand. It’s usually far cheaper than a taxi and, more importantly, it
saves valuable time and energy that you can spend actually enjoying the
village instead of waiting in the heat.
If you can,
aim to arrive before 10:00 a.m. You don’t have to be there at sunrise,
but the difference between arriving at 9:30 and 11:30 during the height
of summer can be enormous. The crowds grow quickly and last well into
the afternoon, the temperatures climb even faster, and exploring the
narrow medieval streets becomes much less comfortable as it has become
an extremely popular place to visit.
Lately I’ve noticed more and more social media posts
recommending that visitors skip the bus entirely and simply hike up the
famous Nietzsche Trail.
On paper, it sounds like a wonderful idea.
In reality, for many visitors, it can be a very poor decision.
The
Nietzsche Trail is beautiful. It is also steep, rocky, exposed to the
sun, and considerably more demanding than many people realise from
watching a 30-second travel video online.
Almost every day I watch people begin the climb completely unprepared.
No water.
No hat.
No sunscreen.
No snacks.
No hiking shoes.
Sometimes they’re wearing sandals. Occasionally I’ve even seen people attempting the climb in high heels.
I’ve watched parents trying to push strollers uphill.
Fathers carrying infants.
Families encourage exhausted toddlers to climb what is, after all, a mountain trail.
I’ve even seen women in the later stages of pregnancy preparing to tackle the ascent.
At times I’ve even tried to gently intervene to no avail.
Time
after time, people underestimate what they’re about to do because
they’re on holiday and everything feels exciting. Unfortunately, the
Mediterranean climate doesn’t care whether you’re on vacation.
Even by mid-morning, temperatures can already feel oppressive, especially for visitors arriving from cooler climates.
The
climb itself can easily take well over an hour on a good day depending
on your fitness level, and significantly longer if you stop frequently
to rest. There are no cafés, refreshment stands or convenience stores
along the trail where you can buy water if you run out.
Every
summer, emergency services across the Riviera respond to hikers
suffering from heat exhaustion, dehydration, falls, and, in more serious
cases, cardiac emergencies. Even experienced hikers can struggle during
periods of extreme heat, particularly on exposed trails with little
shade.
As locals, we become accustomed to recognising
the warning signs. We know when the conditions simply aren’t suitable
for a strenuous climb, no matter how fit we may be.
The Nietzsche Trail absolutely deserves its reputation.
If
hiking is something you regularly do and you’ve come properly equipped
with plenty of water, appropriate footwear, sun protection and realistic
expectations, it can be one of the Riviera’s most rewarding walks.
Personally, however, I would recommend doing it downhill instead.
Descending
from Èze Village towards Èze Bord de Mer allows you to enjoy the
magnificent panoramic views stretching across the Mediterranean rather
than spending most of the climb staring at the rocky path immediately in
front of you. It’s still physically demanding and requires caution, but
for many people it makes for a far more enjoyable experience.
Not every holiday memory needs to begin with “We tried to save a few euros.”
Sometimes the smartest travel decision is also the safest one.
Take the bus if you’re happy to wait.
Book an Uber if you’d prefer comfort and convenience.
Save
your energy for wandering the enchanting streets of Èze Village,
exploring its gardens, enjoying lunch with a view over the
Mediterranean, and discovering everything else this remarkable place has
to offer.
The French Riviera rewards those who slow down.
As
someone fortunate enough to call this region home, my only hope is that
every visitor leaves with wonderful memories—not an unnecessary trip to
the emergency room.
If you’re not accustomed to
mountain hiking, don’t make the Nietzsche Trail your very first attempt
simply because someone on social media said it was “easy.”
The mountain will still be there tomorrow. Your holiday will be far more enjoyable if you arrive at the top safely.
