From Horse-Drawn Streetcars to the Tramways of Tomorrow: The Remarkable History of Nice and the Côte d’Azur on Rails

 

In the distance, almost inaudible beneath the whisper of the Mediterranean wind, comes the gentle sound of a tram approaching. For a moment, you could almost imagine yourself standing on a street in Nice more than a century ago, waiting beneath the afternoon sun as a tram rounds the corner. Its polished body catches the light, passengers sit on wooden benches, the driver watches the road ahead and there is the gentle rhythm of wheels against rails and the murmur of conversation. The tram has arrived.

Today, Nice is once again a city of trams. Modern, quiet, accessible and increasingly ambitious, the network has become one of the defining elements of everyday life on the Côte d’Azur. But today’s sleek Alstom Citadis vehicles are not the beginning of the story. They are, in many ways, the continuation of a story that began nearly 150 years ago.

When Nice First Discovered The Tram

The story begins in the late nineteenth century, when Nice was transforming itself from a Mediterranean city into one of Europe’s great winter resorts. The railway had already changed everything. The first train from Paris reached Nice in 1864, and by 1869 the railway had reached Monaco, with the line extended to Menton and then Ventimiglia. The railway was opening the Riviera to wealthy visitors, encouraging the construction of grand hotels, villas and new boulevards.

But getting people around Nice itself was another matter.

In 1878, horse-drawn streetcars appeared. These early chemins de fer américains ran on rails and represented a remarkable technological leap for the city. What today seems almost impossibly slow was then modernity itself. A tram was not merely transportation. It was an event.

Passengers climbed aboard, greeted neighbours, exchanged news and watched Nice unfold outside the windows. Children waited beside the road for the familiar sound of the wheels and the driver’s bell. For many residents, the tram became part of the rhythm of everyday life. The city was growing, and the tram was growing with it.

Electricity Changes Everything

The real transformation came around the turn of the century. The horse disappeared, electricity arrived, and electric traction transformed what was possible, allowing the tramway to move beyond the immediate streets of Nice and into the wider landscape of the Riviera.

The Tramways de Nice et du Littoral became the backbone of an extraordinary network. The modern electric network was formally born in 1900, when the first TNL line to Cimiez opened on 13 January. Within a remarkably short period, additional routes connected Nice with Villefranche-sur-Mer, Saint-Laurent-du-Var, Cagnes-sur-Mer, Contes and Beaulieu.

And then the tram went even farther.

 

In 1903, a coastal route linked Nice with Monaco and subsequently Menton, running along the spectacular Riviera coastline. At the beginning of the twentieth century, it was possible to travel by tram from Nice through Villefranche and Beaulieu to Monaco and on to Menton.

 

Imagine that journey. There were no motorways, no traffic jams and no tunnels carrying streams of cars beneath the mountains. The Riviera was experienced at the speed of the tram. The sea would appear through the windows, villas and gardens would slide slowly past, and the cliffs, harbours and little coastal towns would reveal themselves almost theatrically. The journey was part of the destination.

A Tramway Empire Stretching Into The Mountains

The extraordinary thing about the historic tram system is that it was not simply a Nice city network. The rails penetrated deep into the Alpes-Maritimes.

Beginning in the early twentieth century, the Tramways des Alpes-Maritimes were created to connect isolated communities in the mountains with the coast and the growing commercial centre of Nice. Lines reached towards Saint-Martin-Vésubie, Saint-Sauveur-de-Tinée, Guillaumes, Roquestéron, Grasse, Vence and other communities.

The Department of the Alpes-Maritimes notes that electric tramway lines were specifically developed from Nice to serve the Paillon, Var and Vésubie valleys. By 1910, the tramway had reached Saint-Martin-Vésubie via Plan-du-Var, with the journey taking around three hours and fifteen minutes.

This was infrastructure as social transformation. Villages that had been relatively isolated suddenly had a connection to the coast. Farmers could move goods, workers could travel, merchants could access larger markets and residents of the valleys could reach Nice more easily. The rails were not simply carrying passengers; they were carrying opportunity.

Some of the engineering was extraordinary. The Guillaumes line, for example, climbed through the dramatic Daluis landscape, including a succession of tunnels through the gorge before crossing the Var on the famous Pont de la Mariée. The journey through the mountains was not simply transportation but an experience in itself.

It was an astonishing network to have existed in a landscape that today can still feel remote.

The Riviera Was Once Connected By Tram

The scale of the historic system is easy to underestimate. The TNL network alone included an urban network in Nice, a coastal network and connections towards Monaco. Historical railway records put the electrified TNL system at approximately 84 kilometres, including about 51 kilometres of coastal routes. 

 

Nice was effectively the center of a web of rails.

Place Masséna was the heart of the urban network, with multiple lines converging there. By 1901, eight lines had been established in Nice, and the system continued expanding. Even the way passengers identified the trams reveals something fascinating about the city of the period. The vehicles did not necessarily rely on today’s sophisticated electronic displays. Instead, routes were identified using coloured square signs and symbols, including circles and bars, helping even people who could not read identify their tram.

The tram was democratic technology. It belonged to everyone.

When The Automobile Won

But the twentieth century brought a new idea of modernity: the automobile.

As elsewhere in France, roads increasingly became designed around cars. Buses were considered more flexible, while tram tracks were increasingly regarded as obstacles to traffic. The irony is difficult to miss today. The tram had once been the symbol of progress, but progress was redefined as the automobile.

The historic network began disappearing. Some routes were converted to buses during the 1920s, and the coastal tramways linking Nice, Monaco and Menton disappeared in the early 1930s. The mountain branches suffered the same fate, disappearing progressively as road transport expanded.

The last historic Nice tramway finally disappeared in 1953.

The rails were removed, the overhead wires vanished and the tram became a memory preserved in postcards, photographs and family stories. For more than half a century, Nice would become increasingly dependent on buses and private automobiles.

When Nice Changed Its Mind

By the late twentieth century, however, the automobile had created its own problem: traffic, congestion, pollution and a city increasingly difficult to navigate.

Nice had begun to rediscover something that earlier generations had understood instinctively: a successful city needs transportation systems capable of moving large numbers of people efficiently without requiring every person to own or use a car.

An earlier proposal for a metro was ultimately abandoned because of its cost. In 1996, the city decided to abandon the older metro concept in favour of a tramway solution, and in 1998 the municipal council formally approved the modern tram project following public consultation.

Construction began in 2003.

On 24 November 2007, after an absence of more than half a century, the tram returned to Nice.

The return was about much more than nostalgia. The new Line 1 represented a fundamental change in the way Nice approached urban transportation. Instead of designing the city around the automobile, the city was once again giving priority to high-capacity public transport.

The Rebirth Of The Nice Tramway

The first modern line was Line 1, running north-south through the city. The new tramway was radically different from its ancestor. There were no horses and no wooden streetcars, but modern low-floor trams, dedicated infrastructure, accessible stations and an increasingly integrated public transport network.

The response was immediate. Passenger numbers rose rapidly after opening, and the frequency was progressively increased. The success of Line 1 demonstrated that Nice residents were prepared to leave their cars behind when public transportation was frequent, reliable and convenient.

The tram was no longer a nostalgic return to the past. It was becoming the backbone of Nice’s future.

Line 2: Taking The Tram Underground

The next great transformation was Line 2. Rather than simply reproducing the surface network, Nice built something much more ambitious: a tramway that disappears beneath the city centre.

Line 2 created an east-west spine linking the airport with central Nice and Port Lympia. Approximately 3.2 kilometres of the 9.2-kilometre line are underground.

For visitors, the significance is enormous. Arriving at Nice Côte d’Azur Airport no longer means automatically finding a taxi or navigating a bus through traffic. The tram takes passengers directly into the city, with Line 2 serving both Terminal 1 and Terminal 2 before continuing towards Port Lympia.

It has fundamentally changed the arrival experience on the Riviera. A visitor can step off an aircraft and, within minutes, be travelling through the city by tram. For residents, the line provides something even more important: a reliable east-west alternative to increasingly congested roads.

The airport connection has also helped reinforce Nice’s position as one of Europe’s most accessible Mediterranean destinations. Few major tourist cities can offer such a direct and relatively inexpensive connection between their principal airport and the urban centre.

Line 3 And The Transformation Of The Var Plain

Line 3 extended the tramway westward towards Saint-Isidore, serving the rapidly developing Plaine du Var.

The significance of this cannot be separated from Nice’s broader urban development. The western side of Nice has undergone enormous change, with the airport, business districts, Grand Arénas, the Allianz Riviera and expanding residential and commercial areas creating a very different urban geography from the Nice of the twentieth century.

The tram has become one of the mechanisms connecting those new districts to the historic centre.

And the network continues to evolve.

Since January 2025, the operational structure has been reorganised so that Line 2 operates between Port Lympia and the airport, while Line 3 runs from Saint-Isidore through the centre to Port Lympia. A new Line B provides the airport–CADAM connection and preserves the connection to the administrative centre.

The tram network is no longer simply a collection of separate lines. It is becoming a genuine network.

Nice In 2026: The Tram Has Become Part Of Everyday Life

Today, Lignes d’Azur operates four tram lines: Line 1, Line 2, Line 3 and Line B. Line 1 covers approximately 9.2 kilometres between Henri Sappia and Hôpital Pasteur. Line 2 covers 9.2 kilometres between Aéroport Terminal 2 and Port Lympia, including its underground central section. Line 3 stretches 12.3 kilometres from Saint-Isidore to Port Lympia, while Line B covers the three-kilometre airport–CADAM connection.

The tram is now supported by a much broader system of buses, park-and-ride facilities and cycling infrastructure. Lignes d’Azur currently operates an extensive urban network, with four tram lines and numerous Parcazur park-and-ride facilities designed to encourage motorists to leave their cars outside the centre and continue by public transport.

The transformation is particularly visible at the airport. For a city whose economy depends heavily on tourism, the ability to move visitors from the airport into the centre, towards the Port and onward through the metropolitan area is enormously important.

The tram has become part of Nice’s welcome mat.

Line 4: Extending The Tramway Along The Western Côte d’Azur

Perhaps the most important next chapter is already taking shape with Line 4, which will extend the tramway beyond Nice towards Saint-Laurent-du-Var and Cagnes-sur-Mer.

The planned line will be approximately 7.1 kilometres long, with 18 stations, including 14 new stations. It is expected to connect Nice Saint-Augustin/Grand Arénas with central Cagnes-sur-Mer, passing through Saint-Laurent-du-Var. The planned journey time is approximately 23 minutes, with trams expected roughly every eight minutes.

This is particularly significant because Cagnes-sur-Mer and Saint-Laurent-du-Var are among the most populous communities of the wider Nice metropolitan area.

The project is also about considerably more than rails. The plans include substantial public-space improvements, pedestrian facilities, cycling infrastructure, vegetation and park-and-ride facilities. The metropolitan authority says approximately 250,000 square metres of public space will be requalified, while the project includes extensive tree planting and preservation.

And in July 2026, there was an important legal development: the Administrative Tribunal of Nice rejected a challenge from local residents against the declaration of public utility for Line 4, clearing an important legal obstacle to the project.

The current timetable anticipates preparatory works in 2026, major infrastructure and track works from 2027, an initial opening towards Cagnes-sur-Mer’s Val Fleuri area around 2030, and completion to central Cagnes-sur-Mer and the Parc des Sports terminus by the end of 2031.

For the western Côte d’Azur, this could be transformative.

And Then There Is Line 5

If Line 4 represents the tramway’s expansion westward, Line 5 represents its expansion eastward into the Paillon valley.

The proposed Line 5 will connect Nice with Saint-André-de-la-Roche, La Trinité and Drap. The planned route is approximately 7.5 kilometres long, with 15 stations and an estimated journey time of 25 minutes. The project is designed to serve approximately 47,000 inhabitants and 13,900 jobs.

The metropolitan authority estimates that Line 5 could remove around 18,000 cars from the Paillon valley every day and avoid approximately 2,000 tonnes of CO₂ emissions annually.

The project reached another important milestone when its public inquiry was held from 3 November to 12 December 2025, with the inquiry report and conclusions subsequently published. The proposed timetable envisages sections opening progressively, with the Pont-Michel–Ariane section targeted for 2028, the La Trinité connection around 2030 and Drap around 2031.

Once again, the philosophy is strikingly similar to that of the old tramways: connect the communities, make movement easier, open the valleys and bring people closer to Nice. Only the technology has changed.

The Return Of A Regional Vision

There is something particularly interesting about the modern expansion of Nice’s tramway when viewed against the history of the old system.

The historic tramway did not stop at the boundaries of Nice. It reached into neighbouring communities and deep into the mountains because transportation was understood as a means of connecting an entire region.

Today’s tramway is gradually returning to that metropolitan philosophy.

Line 4 will strengthen connections between Nice, Saint-Laurent-du-Var and Cagnes-sur-Mer. Line 5 is intended to strengthen connections between Nice and the communities of the Paillon valley. Together with the existing network, regional rail services and buses, the system is slowly creating a much more integrated transportation network across the metropolitan area.

The modern system is not recreating the old tramway network. That would be neither practical nor desirable. But it is reviving its underlying principle: transportation should connect communities rather than simply move vehicles.

From The Mediterranean To The Mountains

There is also something deeply poetic about the contrast between the old network and the new.

The historic tram could take you from the Mediterranean coast towards the mountains, passing through landscapes that changed dramatically along the way. Today’s network does not yet reproduce that extraordinary reach. The old tramways to Saint-Martin-Vésubie, Guillaumes, Grasse and the other valleys are gone.

But the principle survives.

The modern tram connects the airport to the centre, the centre to the port, the city to the western plain, and increasingly Nice to the communities that surround it.

Beyond the tram itself, the Chemins de Fer de Provence continue to provide a rail connection into the hinterland, while Lignes d’Azur’s integrated network reaches throughout the metropolitan territory. Certain Chemins de Fer de Provence journeys can even be made using Lignes d’Azur fares between Nice Centre and Le Chaudan, illustrating the increasingly interconnected nature of the region’s public transport system.

The old dream of connecting the coast and the mountains has never completely disappeared. It has simply taken different forms.

The Great Irony Of The Tramway

There is a wonderful irony in all of this.

The tram disappeared because the automobile represented the future. Now the tram is returning because the automobile alone cannot provide the future.

The old tramway was eventually overwhelmed by cars because cities had not yet understood the consequences of designing urban life around them. Today’s tramway is part of a broader effort to reclaim public space, reduce congestion, improve air quality and make cities more pleasant to live in.

The philosophy has changed completely. The tram no longer has to compete with the city. Increasingly, the city is being redesigned around the tram.

That can be seen in Nice’s pedestrian areas, redesigned boulevards, cycle routes, planted tram platforms and public squares. The rails are no longer simply transportation infrastructure. They are instruments of urban renewal.

A Different Kind Of Riviera Experience

For visitors, the transformation is just as significant.

The Côte d’Azur has traditionally been associated with glamour, expensive cars, yachts and private transfers. But the modern Riviera can also be experienced without a car, particularly in and around Nice.

A visitor can arrive at Nice Côte d’Azur Airport, take the tram into the city, continue towards the Old Town, reach the Port, connect with buses and trains, and explore much of the coast without ever sitting behind the wheel.

That is not simply convenient. It changes the experience of the destination.

Instead of concentrating on traffic, parking and navigation, visitors can look out of the window and watch the city unfold. They can move at street level, see neighbourhoods they might otherwise have missed and experience Nice as a living city rather than merely a collection of tourist attractions.

For residents, the advantages are even greater. A reliable tram network gives people another choice.

And choice is ultimately what good public transportation is about.

Nearly 150 Years Of History

It is extraordinary to consider just how much has changed since the first horse-drawn streetcars appeared in Nice in 1878.

The city has grown enormously. The population has changed, the coastline has been transformed, roads have been widened, cars have multiplied and entire neighbourhoods have appeared where fields and orchards once stood.

Yet the fundamental problem remains remarkably similar.

How do you move people efficiently through a beautiful but geographically complicated city surrounded by hills, valleys and the Mediterranean?

The answer in 1878 was the tram.

The answer in 1900 was the electric tram.

The answer in the middle of the twentieth century became the automobile and the bus.

And increasingly, the answer of the twenty-first century is once again the tram.

The Future Is On Rails

Perhaps that is the most remarkable part of Nice’s transportation story.

The tram is not simply being restored as a historical curiosity. It is being reinvented as a central part of the city’s future.

The network that returned in 2007 has grown into something far more sophisticated than the system that existed in the nineteenth century. It links the airport, city centre, port, northern districts and western suburbs, while future projects promise to extend the network into neighbouring communities.

Line 4 will push the system towards Cagnes-sur-Mer. Line 5 will reach further into the Paillon valley. Other improvements to public transport, cycling and pedestrian infrastructure are reshaping how people move around the metropolitan area.

And the significance extends beyond transportation.

It is about what kind of city Nice wants to be.

A city dominated by cars, congestion and asphalt, or a city where streets are increasingly designed for people, public transportation, pedestrians and cyclists.

The tram has become one of the clearest symbols of that choice.

A Journey Through Time

Perhaps the best way to understand the story is to imagine standing once again on a Nice street.

In 1878, a horse-drawn tram approached. Passengers climb aboard, the driver takes the reins and the vehicle slowly disappears into the growing city.

A few decades later, electricity has transformed the scene. The tram can travel farther, faster and deeper into the region, carrying passengers along the coast towards Monaco and Menton and climbing into the valleys and mountains of the Alpes-Maritimes.

Then, after decades of decline, the tracks disappear.

Nice becomes a city of buses and automobiles.

For more than fifty years, the tram has existed only in photographs.

Then, in 2007, it returned.

Today, a modern tram glides through Place Masséna. Another disappears beneath the city towards the airport. Another travels west towards Saint-Isidore. Soon, new lines will begin extending the network beyond Nice itself.

The vehicles may be modern, but the idea is remarkably old.

Connect people.

Connect communities.

Make the city accessible.

Make the journey part of everyday life.

That was the purpose of the tramway more than a century ago, and it remains its purpose today.

The rails have returned to the Côte d’Azur, not because Nice is looking backwards, but because the city has realised that one of the solutions to its future was hiding in its past.

From the horse-drawn streetcars of 1878 to the modern tramways of 2026, Nice has travelled an extraordinary circular journey.

And there is still plenty of track ahead.

Photos courtesy of Comté de Nice et son histoire

HIV Prevention: Injectable PrEP Offers a New Option in France

 

France’s healthcare system has long been recognised for its broad access, strong public coverage and ability to make innovative treatments available through the Social Security system. That combination is particularly important in HIV prevention, where access to effective, discreet and convenient protection can make a significant difference. Now, people in France have another option: injectable PrEP.

Since February, Apretude, the first long-acting injectable PrEP available in France, has been reimbursed by Social Security. Containing the antiretroviral drug cabotegravir, Apretude is administered by injection every two months after an initial phase, offering an alternative to taking PrEP tablets regularly.

PrEP, or pre-exposure prophylaxis, is a preventive treatment for people who are HIV-negative but may be exposed to HIV. The French National Authority for Health (HAS) recommends injectable PrEP as an alternative for people for whom oral PrEP is not suitable or practical.

Who can benefit from injectable PrEP?

Unlike some prevention programmes that focus on specific groups, injectable PrEP is not restricted by the HAS to particular populations. Instead, it can be considered for anyone who is HIV-negative and may benefit from PrEP, particularly when taking tablets is difficult or inappropriate.

This can include people who struggle to maintain a daily medication routine, including some people who use drugs or engage in chemsex, sex workers, migrants or people who need to keep their PrEP use discreet because of stigma or their personal circumstances.

It may also be appropriate for people for whom oral PrEP is not recommended because of kidney or bone problems, those with difficulties absorbing medication through the digestive system, including following certain types of surgery, and people who have difficulty swallowing tablets.

The principle is relatively simple: prevention works best when people have access to an option they can realistically use. As Valérie Grange, public affairs director at ViiV Healthcare, which developed Apretude, explains, the aim is to find the most appropriate option for each individual and expand access to PrEP as widely as possible.

Are there contraindications?

There are relatively few medical contraindications, but injectable PrEP is not appropriate for everyone.

Apretude should not be given to people who are HIV-positive or whose HIV status has not been established. It is also contraindicated in people with a known hypersensitivity to the treatment.

Certain medications can also interact with cabotegravir, including some treatments for tuberculosis, such as rifampicin and rifapentine, as well as several anti-epileptic medicines including carbamazepine, oxcarbazepine, phenytoin and phenobarbital.

Because Apretude is injected into the muscle, it is also generally not recommended for people taking therapeutic doses of anticoagulants because of the potential risk of bleeding or a haematoma. People with buttock implants may likewise not be suitable candidates.

Is injectable PrEP as effective as PrEP tablets?

Yes. When taken correctly, both oral and injectable PrEP provide a very high level of protection against HIV.

Injectable PrEP does, however, offer one major practical advantage: there is no daily tablet to remember. For people who find adherence difficult, removing the possibility of missed daily doses can make injectable PrEP an especially attractive option.

There is an important caveat. Protection is not immediate after the first injection and reaches full effectiveness after seven days.

And while PrEP is highly effective against HIV, it does not protect against other sexually transmitted infections. It also does not protect against hepatitis B, for which vaccination remains an important form of prevention.

How do you get injectable PrEP in France?

Apretude can be prescribed by a doctor experienced in HIV care, whether a general practitioner or specialist.

Before treatment begins, a comprehensive blood test is required to make sure the person does not have an existing HIV infection, including a recent infection that might not yet be obvious. This is particularly important because giving cabotegravir to someone who already has HIV could contribute to the development of resistance to certain HIV medicines.

Screening for other sexually transmitted infections is also carried out, while kidney and liver function are checked.

For most people, treatment can then begin. In some cases, particularly where there are concerns about allergies or tolerance, doctors may recommend an initial course of oral medication before moving to injections.

The standard injectable schedule begins with two injections one month apart. After that, injections are administered every eight weeks.

Regular medical monitoring remains part of the process, with blood tests generally performed every two months initially and then every four months.

Stopping treatment also needs to be discussed with a doctor. Cabotegravir can remain in the body at very low levels for many months — potentially close to a year — after the last injection, meaning appropriate follow-up and alternative HIV prevention should be considered when treatment is discontinued.

Does the injection hurt?

Apretude is injected into the gluteal muscle, so there is inevitably a little more involved than simply swallowing a tablet.

The injection can cause some discomfort, and soreness around the injection site can last for a day or two. However, clinical experience indicates that injection-site discomfort generally becomes less troublesome with repeated injections.

Apretude is otherwise generally well tolerated. Some people may experience mild and temporary side effects such as headaches or a slight fever.

For many users, the trade-off may be worthwhile: a brief period of discomfort every two months rather than remembering to take a tablet every day.

How much does Apretude cost?

One of the major advantages of the French healthcare system is that access to important preventive treatments does not depend entirely on a person’s ability to pay out of pocket.

Apretude is fully reimbursed for people covered by French Social Security, Complementary Solidarity Health Insurance (CSS) and State Medical Aid (AME).

There is, however, one additional cost that can complicate access. The HIV viral-load test required before prescribing PrEP is reimbursed at 65 percent, except for people covered by AME. Supplementary health insurance will generally cover the remainder.

The test can also be obtained free of charge through CeGIDD — free information, screening and diagnostic centres — as well as through some community health organisations and centres specialising in sexual health.

Organisations such as AIDES have nevertheless argued that requiring this test creates an unnecessary barrier for people who are already more likely to be disconnected from mainstream healthcare.

The hope among advocates and healthcare professionals is that future evidence could eventually lead to changes in the reimbursement requirements. For now, however, the testing requirement remains part of the French prescribing pathway.

Another tool in France’s HIV-Prevention arsenal

The arrival of injectable PrEP represents an important expansion of HIV prevention in France. Rather than replacing oral PrEP, condoms or regular STI testing, Apretude adds another option for people who need or prefer a different approach.

That flexibility matters. HIV prevention is most effective when people can choose a method that fits their health, relationships, lifestyle and circumstances.

With France’s public healthcare system providing broad reimbursement for the treatment, injectable PrEP is now considerably more accessible than it would be if patients had to shoulder the full cost themselves. The challenge ahead is ensuring that people who could benefit from it actually know it exists, can access appropriate testing and feel comfortable discussing their sexual health with healthcare professionals.

In other words, science has moved forward. The next step is making sure access keeps pace.

Why September Is Becoming the New August on the French Riviera

 

For generations, July and August were practically synonymous with a holiday on the French Riviera. The Côte d’Azur was sold as the ultimate summer playground: long, hot days, packed beaches, glamorous restaurants, yachts offshore and seemingly endless sunshine. August, in particular, was the month when much of France traditionally shut down and headed south.

But something has changed.

Increasingly, over the past few years visitors who have the flexibility to choose when they travel are discovering that September may actually be the better month to experience the French Riviera. It is not that July and August have suddenly lost their appeal — they remain the busiest period of the year — but the traditional definition of the Riviera’s “summer season” is changing. Tourism authorities themselves now describe the Côte d’Azur as having an extended summer season stretching from May into September, with September increasingly performing at levels that would once have been associated primarily with the height of summer.

And for many experienced visitors, September offers something increasingly difficult to find in July and August: the Riviera at its best, without quite so much of the Riviera at its most crowded.

The Weather Argument Has Changed Dramatically

Perhaps the biggest reason for the September shift is deceptively simple: summer no longer ends when the calendar says it does.

The Mediterranean climate means September can remain remarkably warm, sunny and beach-friendly. The sea has spent the entire summer absorbing heat, so the water can remain extremely pleasant well into September. Meanwhile, daytime temperatures are often more comfortable for sightseeing, walking, dining and exploring villages than during the hottest weeks of July and August.

That distinction is becoming increasingly important.

For the traveller, that changes the calculation.

The weather is another part of the equation. July and August are traditionally the hottest months on the French Riviera, and while the Mediterranean climate makes summer wonderfully appealing, the combination of high temperatures, strong sunshine and busy days can sometimes make sightseeing and exploring less comfortable. September offers a slightly softer version of summer, with plenty of warmth and sunshine while temperatures generally become more manageable as the month progresses.

For visitors who want to spend their days exploring hilltop villages, wandering through historic towns, enjoying long lunches on terraces or taking boat trips along the coast, that difference can be significant. September still feels unmistakably like summer, but without quite the intensity of the peak July and August season.

Twenty-five or 28 degrees in September can be far more enjoyable than enduring prolonged periods of extreme heat in July or August. A day spent wandering around Èze, Saint-Paul-de-Vence, Antibes or the old streets of Nice becomes considerably more pleasurable when you aren’t constantly searching for shade.

September is therefore increasingly becoming the month for people who want summer weather without necessarily wanting peak-summer heat.

The Sea Can Actually Be Better

There is also a wonderful Mediterranean trick involved in September.

The sea does not immediately cool down when August ends. It has been absorbing the summer’s heat for months, which means September water temperatures can remain exceptionally comfortable.

In fact, for someone whose priority is swimming, boating or simply spending time beside the Mediterranean, September can make a compelling argument for itself.

The sea around the Côte d’Azur is generally still warm, while the air can be noticeably more comfortable. Météo-France has documented exceptionally warm Mediterranean waters in recent summers, including temperatures substantially above seasonal norms.

So the idea that travelling in September means sacrificing the beach is increasingly outdated.

You can still swim in the Mediterranean. You can still take a boat to Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. You can still spend an afternoon at Paloma Beach or Plage Mala. You can still have lunch overlooking the sea.

The difference is that you may not have to do it shoulder-to-shoulder with half of Europe.

Then There Is The Crowd Factor

This may be the single biggest attraction.

July and August are extraordinarily busy on the Côte d’Azur. In 2025, hotel occupancy on the coast reached approximately 87% in July and 89% in August, with the first half of August approaching 92%. Around the August 15 holiday weekend, occupancy peaked above 98%.

Those numbers tell the story.

The Riviera is wonderful when it is busy. But there is a point at which popularity begins to undermine the very experience people have travelled thousands of kilometres to enjoy.

Roads become congested. Parking has become an Olympic sport. Beaches become crowded. Restaurants require reservations well in advance. Popular beaches and beach clubs fill rapidly. Boats cluster around the same famous anchorages. Getting from Nice to Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, Èze, Monaco or Cannes can take considerably longer than it should.

Then September arrives.

The French holiday period ends, families return home, European schoolchildren go back to class, and suddenly the Riviera has room to breathe again.

The transformation can be surprisingly dramatic.

The same coastline that felt intensely crowded in August can feel almost luxurious in September.

September Gives Visitors More Riviera And Less Tourist Circus

This is perhaps the biggest psychological difference.

In August, visitors sometimes experience the Riviera as a spectacular tourist destination.

In September, they can experience it more as a place.

Cafés become calmer. Beaches have more space. Villages become easier to explore. Museums are less exhausting. Driving becomes less stressful. Restaurants can feel more relaxed. Walking through the old towns of Nice, Antibes or Menton becomes an experience rather than an exercise in navigating crowds.

And for repeat visitors, this matters enormously.

Someone visiting Nice for the first time may be thrilled by the intensity of August. Someone returning for the fifth, tenth or twentieth time may increasingly ask themselves: Why am I doing this to myself when September exists?

That is one reason September has become such a favourite among more experienced Riviera travellers.

The Price Equation Is Becoming Increasingly Attractive

There is another obvious factor: money.

July and August are peak seasons. Demand is at its highest, and prices naturally reflect that.

September sits in an increasingly attractive middle ground. Visitors can still enjoy summer conditions, but accommodation rates and other tourist expenses often begin easing as peak demand disappears.

That can make a substantial difference, particularly for travellers staying for a week or longer, renting villas or apartments, or travelling with families and groups.

The difference is particularly noticeable for people who are not tied to school holidays.

If you don’t have children in school, why pay August prices simply because August is traditionally considered “summer”?

The economics increasingly favour September.

And the tourism industry knows it.

Côte d’Azur France Tourism reported that September 2025 hotel occupancy along the coast remained between 80% and 85%, remarkably close to the peak summer figures. More importantly, advance bookings for September were running three percentage points ahead of the previous year, while international flight bookings for September and October were up 6% year-on-year and French bookings were up 9%.

That is not simply anecdotal evidence that people like September.

It is evidence that people are increasingly booking it.

September Is No Longer A Dead Zone

For decades, the perception of September was that the summer was finished.

That perception is now badly out of date.

The Riviera’s tourism industry has deliberately extended the season with cultural, sporting, business and luxury events outside the traditional July-August window.

The Cannes Yachting Festival, Monaco Yacht Show, sporting events, exhibitions, cultural programmes and numerous festivals help keep the destination active well beyond the August peak. Côte d’Azur France Tourism has explicitly identified this extended season as a major component of its tourism strategy.

September also brings the European Heritage Days, when historic buildings and cultural sites across the region open their doors for special visits, tours and events.

This creates a different type of Riviera holiday.

Instead of simply lying on the beach every day, visitors can combine swimming and boating with art, architecture, food, wine, history, shopping, museums and village excursions.

The destination becomes more rounded.

The Changing Traveller Is Part Of The Story

There is also a demographic change behind the September phenomenon.

Not everyone travelling to the Côte d’Azur is a family constrained by the French school calendar.

The Riviera increasingly attracts retirees, affluent travellers, couples, independent professionals, long-haul visitors and repeat visitors who have considerably more flexibility over when they travel.

For these travellers, August is no longer automatically the obvious choice.

Why fight for a restaurant table on August 14 when you can have the same dinner in September?

Why pay peak-season villa rates when you can rent the same property later?

Why battle traffic on the Moyenne Corniche when you can explore the coast when the roads are calmer?

And why endure extreme heat when September can offer warmth without quite the same intensity?

The answer increasingly becomes obvious.

North Americans Are Discovering The September Riviera

This is particularly relevant to the growing North American market.

Americans and Canadians have become an increasingly important international clientele for the Côte d’Azur. In 2025, North Americans were among the destination’s leading foreign visitor groups, with the United States among the top nationalities represented. Côte d’Azur France Tourism has also identified long-haul markets, particularly North America, as strategic priorities because these visitors tend to stay longer and spend more.

That market is particularly well suited to September.

A traveller coming from New York, Toronto, Vancouver, Chicago or Los Angeles is not necessarily constrained by the traditional European August holiday period. Once the kids return to school and the European peak season begins winding down, September becomes an attractive opportunity to enjoy the Riviera at a slightly slower pace. The starting months of Autumn are also the best time to visit properties to possibly buy.

It also fits naturally with longer European trips.

A visitor might spend a few nights in Paris, head south to Provence and then finish on the Côte d’Azur in September — effectively turning the end of summer into an extended Mediterranean escape.

The Riviera Itself Is Encouraging The Change

This isn’t simply a case of tourists independently discovering a secret.

The destination’s tourism authorities are actively promoting a longer season.

Côte d’Azur France Tourism’s 2026 strategy describes the region’s goal as an “extended summer season” and a destination increasingly operating across all four seasons. The organisation points to the strong performance of September alongside May and June as evidence that visitors are already spreading their stays beyond the traditional July-August peak.

That is an important shift in the Riviera’s tourism model.

Rather than concentrating enormous numbers of visitors into eight weeks, the region has an economic incentive to spread tourism across more of the year.

September is perfectly positioned to benefit.

It offers many of the experiences visitors associate with summer while reducing some of the disadvantages of peak season.

But Is September Really Better Than August?

For some people, absolutely.

For others, not necessarily.

Families whose children are still in school may have little choice but to travel in July or August. Some visitors love the energy of peak season. Others deliberately want the packed beach clubs, nightlife, fireworks, major events and frenetic atmosphere.

August still has its magic. And honestly although our tourism numbers have stayed strong over the past few years. Last summer and this summer things seem far more manageable and at ease with visitors to the region.

But the important point is that September is no longer merely the consolation prize for people who couldn’t make it in August.

It has become a destination in its own right.

And increasingly, it may represent the more sophisticated way to experience the Côte d’Azur.

The Riviera in September still has warm Mediterranean water, long lunches, boats, beaches, terraces, rosé, sunsets and that extraordinary blue light that has attracted artists and travellers for generations.

The New Riviera Calendar

The traditional Riviera calendar used to be brutally simple:

July and August = Summer.

That is no longer really how the region works.

The modern Côte d’Azur increasingly has a much longer season — beginning in early spring, continuing through the summer and extending deep into September and, increasingly, October. Tourism data already demonstrates how strong September has become, with occupancy remaining surprisingly high even after the traditional summer peak.

And climate change may reinforce that evolution.

As heatwaves become more frequent and seasons become less predictable, travellers are beginning to rethink what constitutes the ideal Mediterranean holiday. Météo-France notes that climate change is increasing both the frequency and persistence of heat episodes, while unusually warm conditions are increasingly occurring outside the traditional summer window.

That means the old assumption that August is the only month for a proper Mediterranean holiday makes progressively less sense.

The Riviera isn’t closing down when August ends.

Quite the opposite.

For an increasing number of visitors, September is when the Riviera finally starts to feel like theirs.

The beaches are still welcoming. The Mediterranean is still inviting. The restaurants are still open. The yachts are still in the harbour. The sun is still shining.

But the frenzy has begun to disappear.

And perhaps that is the ultimate luxury on the French Riviera today: not having the Riviera to yourself — but having just a little more of it to yourself.

Check Your Condoms: France Recalls Hundreds of Thousands Over Safety Concerns

 

Consumers in France are being urged to check their condom supplies after safety defects were discovered in two brands, prompting recalls affecting approximately 260,000 condoms.

The products involved are Friday Bae SAFE and My Lubie Ultra-fins, both of which were found to present potential safety concerns during inspections. Testing identified a risk of rupture, while one of the products was also found to contain holes — defects that could undermine the basic protective purpose of the contraceptive.

The recalls come as French authorities take a broader look at the safety and compliance of condoms being sold to consumers, particularly through online marketplaces.

The Directorate-General for Competition, Consumer Affairs and Fraud Prevention (DGCCRF) has identified around 30 products being sold without the required CE marking on major online retail platforms. Together, those products represent more than 40,000 condoms that had already been sold.

The CE marking is important because it indicates that a medical device has met applicable European Union requirements for safety, health and environmental protection. Its absence does not automatically mean that a product is defective, but it does mean consumers cannot assume that it has gone through the required European conformity process.

How to check your condoms

Consumers should take a few seconds to inspect their condoms before using them.

Check that the packaging carries the CE marking, that the package is intact and undamaged, and that the expiry date has not passed. Condoms should also be stored appropriately and handled carefully to avoid damaging the packaging or the condom itself.

For products potentially affected by the recalls, consumers can check the product reference and lot number against the recall information published through France’s official RappelConso system.

If a condom appears to be part of a recall, it should not be used. Consumers should follow the recall instructions regarding returning or disposing of the product.

What if you have already used one?

Anyone who has used a condom from an affected batch should not automatically panic, but the potential failure of a condom means there may have been exposure to sexually transmitted infections or, where relevant, a risk of pregnancy.

Health professionals can advise on appropriate testing and follow-up. HIV and other STI testing may be recommended depending on the circumstances, with the timing of tests taking into account the relevant window periods. Anyone who develops symptoms should seek medical advice rather than waiting for them to disappear.

The recalls are also a useful reminder that even a product people routinely take for granted deserves a quick check before use. A few seconds spent looking at the packaging, expiry date and product information could make an important difference when it comes to something designed to provide protection in the first place.